The overall number of farmers in the U.S. has been shrinking steadily, but the number of tenant farmers age 25 to 44 climbed almost 9 percent from 2007 to 2012, according to the latest U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) census. In California, the country’s leading agricultural producer, it rose 22 percent; in Washington and Oregon, it was up 9 percent and 11 percent, respectively. Many of the new tenant farmers identify with the locally grown food movement and are cultivating high-value organic produce. U.S. sales of organic food climbed to a record $43.3 billion in 2015, and there’s still plenty of room to grow: The category accounts for only about 5 percent of all food sales, according to the Organic Trade Association. “I had a general feeling of distrust in the industrial food system, and I wanted to be able to provide good-quality food to my community, especially to our families and friends,” says Helena.